Ride the Wave!
Hawaiian Current
In Hawaii, the current is much like a small stream. Lets just say that your hand is in the stream and instead of the water remaining to go forwards, the water that's hitting your hand bounces back. This effect is related to what happens with Hawaii and the mighty Pacific ocean. The Hawaiian islands are pretty much a connection of volcanoes. These volcanoes create a wind tunnel forcing the water flowing downstream to turn back towards the islands.
Last year scientists estimated that the current was much longer. In fact, the current was actually 8,000 kilometers long. Below, you see a diagram showing the wind current (in white) and all of the water temperatures. ( A bigger image is offered once you click on the picture.)
Last year scientists estimated that the current was much longer. In fact, the current was actually 8,000 kilometers long. Below, you see a diagram showing the wind current (in white) and all of the water temperatures. ( A bigger image is offered once you click on the picture.)
Hawaii has a large current but, a waves current is also one of the dangers of surfing. Other dangers include reefs, rocks, sandbars, crowds, sharks, drowing, and undertows. Other dangers are conditions such as when it is storming or when the ocean has flat water. Although you must look for these things while surfing, you should also look for a wave. The wave that you probably want is a half built, breaking wave. When a wave is half buit it means that the wave has not washed up to shore yet, but it is after being formed. When a wave is breaking it means that its base can no longer support its top, so the wave collapses. To ride the wave perfectly, you should paddle strait through the waves, head towards the shoulder, catch the wave at its crest, paddle quickly, and surf on on the waves face.
Although you should try to catch the wave I metioned earlier, there are many other types of waves. One of them is a "flat swell". These waves aren't built yet and have some consequences. It is a waste of energy, it puts you out of position, and it's hard to paddle back out. Another kind is called a “pitching” wave. This is where the wave breaks over the surfer when they try to stand and is usually caused by a too late take off. Some consequences for a "pitching" wave is that it usually results in a wipeout and a unsuccessful surf. This wave is ,also, a waste of energy.