Surfing in California
Waves and oceans are always in motion. Waves are caused by the gravitational pull from the moon. High tides are formed when the moon is close to the beach. Low tides are caused when the moon is farther away from the beach.
Parts of a Wave
The highest point on a wave is called the crest. The lowest point is called a through. The wavelength is the distance inbetween one wave and another. The wave period is found when you calculate the time inbetween wavelengths.
Good Surfing Waves
When the wind gets stronger the waves tend to get steeper; this causes the waves to get higher. As the waves enter the more shallow water on the California beaches the crest caves in; this causes the waves to break. An experienced surfer usually rides the crest of a wave before it breaks. Less experienced surfers practice by riding the wave slightly after it breaks. The size of the wave, wind direction, and wind strength all are important factors in riding a good wave. Surfers look for winds that go the same direction as the wave. They like to surf best when the winds are low.
Dangers of Surfing
There are many dangers of surfing too. The number one danger is marine life, such as sharks. Another danger is lots of people. If you are surfing you risk crashing into others and falling off your board. This could cause drowning. Also there are many sharp objects in and around the ocean which can cause cuts and injuries.
Types of Waves
The 5 types are Deep Water Waves, In-Shore Waves, Constructed Waves, Destructive Waves, and Refracted Waves. Each of these waves have their own characteristics. Some are naturally taller waves. Others are more dangerous to ride.
These are some pictures of California waves and beaches (Above)